There is also a notorious issue of loose timing case bolts, like the one pictured. I found that I was able to knock the dowel pin in about an eight of an inch. The accepted ways of dealing with it are to tab it with a tab that covers the hole and is held in place by the bolt, or to peen the aluminum case so the pin cannot back out of the hole. I did the latter. As for the bolts, of the four, three were tight, but the fourth was finger loose. Two of these bolts hide behind the timing gear. They have to be handled one at a time through one of the three windows in the gear. I cleaned the holes and retorqued the case bolts with red Locktite. I could not locate a timing case/crank seal on Memorial Day, so I was not able to button it up yet. I feel that I dodged a bullet with the loose bolt. I sure did not want that hardened piece of steel bouncing around the timing case with all those gears.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Killed my dowel pin.
The infamous dowel pin (photo center, ten o'clock from the bolt head) is found in the timing case. Many people have reported this coming out and cycling through the timing gears and trashing the front of the motor. Since I have open access to the timing cover on the front of the engine right now, and I am waiting on my tranny housing, I decided to take care of this potential issue.
There is also a notorious issue of loose timing case bolts, like the one pictured. I found that I was able to knock the dowel pin in about an eight of an inch. The accepted ways of dealing with it are to tab it with a tab that covers the hole and is held in place by the bolt, or to peen the aluminum case so the pin cannot back out of the hole. I did the latter. As for the bolts, of the four, three were tight, but the fourth was finger loose. Two of these bolts hide behind the timing gear. They have to be handled one at a time through one of the three windows in the gear. I cleaned the holes and retorqued the case bolts with red Locktite. I could not locate a timing case/crank seal on Memorial Day, so I was not able to button it up yet. I feel that I dodged a bullet with the loose bolt. I sure did not want that hardened piece of steel bouncing around the timing case with all those gears.
There is also a notorious issue of loose timing case bolts, like the one pictured. I found that I was able to knock the dowel pin in about an eight of an inch. The accepted ways of dealing with it are to tab it with a tab that covers the hole and is held in place by the bolt, or to peen the aluminum case so the pin cannot back out of the hole. I did the latter. As for the bolts, of the four, three were tight, but the fourth was finger loose. Two of these bolts hide behind the timing gear. They have to be handled one at a time through one of the three windows in the gear. I cleaned the holes and retorqued the case bolts with red Locktite. I could not locate a timing case/crank seal on Memorial Day, so I was not able to button it up yet. I feel that I dodged a bullet with the loose bolt. I sure did not want that hardened piece of steel bouncing around the timing case with all those gears.
Extent of the damage.
After separating the transfer case from the transmission, this is what I found. 
What appeared to be some cracks is actually much worse. M & H machine was going to weld it up for me, but they found a used case for little money.
Looks like I will be back in business in a day.
What appeared to be some cracks is actually much worse. M & H machine was going to weld it up for me, but they found a used case for little money. 
Looks like I will be back in business in a day.
Friday, May 23, 2008
Bad news today.
This is a view of where the transmission mates to the transfercase. This powertrain combo came out of a severly wrecked truck. I did not see this before today.
The crack goes about halfway around. I noticed this when I put the jack under the case to take the weight off the the cross-member to replace it with the one out of the donor truck. This is a setback. I'll keep you posted.
The crack goes about halfway around. I noticed this when I put the jack under the case to take the weight off the the cross-member to replace it with the one out of the donor truck. This is a setback. I'll keep you posted.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
A landmark day!
Here the cummins sits in this little ramchrger frame. This is the 518 (I think) auto transmission with overdrive. With the (eventual) 3:54 gears, it should end up with decent fuel economy. The transfer case is a NP205. It all came out of a '92 Dodge Cummins. 
Sits a little low on the right (picture left). These springs and axles are definately leaving. There is only about 1 1/2 inches to the bump-stops.
Engine in.
It was great to get this behemoth off the floor today. It had been there for about a year. I am not sure which is heavier, the body or this mess. I should have extended the wheels under the engine more. It was tough to roll and easy to tip. 
Below is a pic of the engine cross-member. I had been concerned about the mount hole on the right side of the picture (left side of truck). The diesel frames have a slot on both sides as this does on the left in the pic. I did not want to mess with slotting the hole if I did not need to, so I gave it a try. 
First, I dropped the engine left motor mount into the hole. 
With the engine up this high, there was no way I was going to try to roll the crane. that would have been a disaster waiting to happen. Instead, I positioned the crane with the engine barely skimming the ground. Then, I lifted it up, being carefull not to get it swinging, and rolled the frame under.
Below is a pic of the engine cross-member. I had been concerned about the mount hole on the right side of the picture (left side of truck). The diesel frames have a slot on both sides as this does on the left in the pic. I did not want to mess with slotting the hole if I did not need to, so I gave it a try. First, I dropped the engine left motor mount into the hole. 
Body off.
My buddy the engine crane went back to work yesterday. He whined a little, but he did the job.
Rolling the frame out to pressure wash. Some previous owner welded the rear bumper on. Idiot. Gotta get out the cut-off wheel and grinder. 
I have never seen a filthier frame. I would not have taken the body off, but it was loose anyway. Now it will be cake to fab-up the exhaust and drivelines.
Here it sits.
Rolling the frame out to pressure wash. Some previous owner welded the rear bumper on. Idiot. Gotta get out the cut-off wheel and grinder.
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