Das update.

The dash is pretty much in. Needs a few mor screws. I still need to get a key made somehow. I got the switch and tumbler assy out, but without a key, I can't get to key lock out of the switch. It is worth a trip to the locksmoth as each of the two parts cast $66. Anyway, the plugs under the dash that I could not figure ended up being some kind of flasher or buzzer for when you leave your keys in. something for the radio, the third was the place where the power door equiptment harness would plug in.
Another pic.

Shifter and Steering

I was not able to simply hook-up the the shift linkage to the column because of the body lift. The 1 1/2' lift moved the linkage bayong it's adjustment. To resolve this, I simply straightened this bend slightly so that the end would pop into place when both the shifter and the tranny were in park. Then I ratcheted through the gears a few times and checked that it hit them all. Another thing to check off the list. Getting closer...
Next, I hooked up the steering shaft. This was a head scratcher for a while, mainly because it was one of the places where the 1977 met the 1992. I'm still not sure if I get how it all worked out, but I will try to describe it. Notice that the steering coupler is up by the '92 steering column and the rag joint is down by the '77 steering box.
This picture is of a spare '92 steering column and steering shaft to show the stock '92 configuration. Notice that the ragjoint is by the culumn and the coupler is above my hand where it would connect to the steering box. Here is the problem. The splines on the '92 coupler do not match the splines on the '77 steering box. Also, the shaft itself is about 2" too long. This is because the old style steering box is mounted differently and turns the opposite direction. I could have changed the box, and I still might, but this worked and there is no reason why it shouldn't be safe, as you will see.
Messing with a spare part, I found that the splines on the '77 coupler and the splines on the column side of the '92 rag joint were the same, so I drove out the roll pin on the column side of the '92 racg joint that was aready installed in the truck. Since I forgot to take picture, I am showing the part and the roll pin on the extra column.
This is the '92 coupler. I am not using this part as its splines only fit the '92 steering box. It is also connected to the shaft that is too long.

I ended up using the '77 shaft. Not only was it the right length, but it also was the only thing that had the correct splines (on the rag joint end) to fit the '77 steering box. This pic shows the '77 coupler installed on the '92 steering column with the roll pin reinstalled.

This shows the '77 ragjoint on the '77 steering box. For a while, I thought I was going to have to cut and weld the steering shaft and put it together with two rag joints. Neither of which would have made me hapy from either a safety or drivability standpoint. I am pleased with how this worked out.

The summary of this (I realize this has sounded like a bunch of circular mumbo-jumbo with a lot of '92s and '77s in it) is, if you are using the '92 cummins dash, column, and wiring harness, as I am, but retaining the old '77 steering box. also use the '77 steering shaft. Knock out the roll pin and remove the rag joint from the column, and the older shaft will fit.

If I had retained the old dash and column this would not have been an issue. But, by using the dash wiring that fits the engine wiring, I am saving a lot of wiring fabrication nightmare, which is my least favorite kind of nightmare. Since I am using the newer wiring, it only made sense to use the dash that it was meant for (even thhough the old steel dash is way cooler). The same goes for the column. The wiring plugs are different from '77 to '89, which in turn the '89 is different than the '92. In fact my '75 is different than my '77. By using the '92 I have plug and play wiring, I also have tilt, wheel monted cruise control buttons, and column mounted delay wipers instead of having to reach hafway across the dash to control the two speed wiper in the '77 dash. I also like the smaller overall diameter, but bigger grip diameter steering wheel. In my mind, this was the only way to go.

My Version of a Hybrid

Tonight, I spent a little time on the dash. Actually I spent most of the time under it. I started by laying out the harness. I took the steering column down twice befor I got it figured out. Three times if you count the metal strip that supports the under side of the dash that goes over the steering couln and gets sandwiched between the steering column and the brake pedal/column bracket. Note to self: When you do this again on the crewcab, the main harness goes over the brake/column bracket and in the long plastic sleeve behind the cluster.
The reaso i call this a hybrid, is because it is a combo of so many things. The frame and rear sheet metal is 1977 half-ton ramcharger. The axles, for now, are 1975 3/4-ton crewcab. The engine, transmission, transfer case, wiring, and dash are out of two different 1992 diesel trucks. The front sheet metal and doors will be off a 1989 half-ton. At least it all came off Dodges

The next series of pics are mainly here as a host sight so I can post them on http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/ to see if anybody can tell me what they are and where they go.

The first, the pics are terrible. It is some sort of gizmo with a plastic bracket. it does not plug anywhere. I just want to know what it is.
Another bad shot of it.
This next has wires whose colors remind me of car stereo speaker wires. But the plug does not fit the back of the factory radio.
This is the inside of the last plug. My phone is kind of hit and miss on pictures, this was a mis.
Here is another pretty good shot of the same plug.
Finally there is this little guy. Now that I am not in the shop, this may be where the power window/door lock harness would plug in. I will check that tomorrow.
Another shot. All three of these are under the dash to the left of the brake light switch and to the right of the ash tray, and they come out of the main under dash factory 1992 ctd wiring harness.

1992 factory CTD transmission Cooler

The next thing to get installed is the transmission cooler. I drilled the oval-shaped hole with overlapping 1 3/4" holes in the hole saw arbor. Then, I cleaned it up with the cut-off tool, the same as the way I cut the holes for the intercooler. I did not even measure for this one, I just held the cooler up in place and marked the center of the holes. The hole saw was of no particular size, it was just one I had.

This is how the coller will fit on top of the intercooler.
I had some of this u-shaped moulding with adhesive already in the groove so i decided to use it around the hole. The last thing I want out on a trail or anywhere is to have a rub wear through the tranny fliud line and leave me or my kid stuck somewhere.
Here it is bolted in place. I left a gap between the intercoller and the tranny cooler so there would be no rub or heat transfer. In the left, I used two self-tapping self-drilling sheet metal screws, being crefull they were not long enough to ever come in contact with the radiator.
In the other side, I made another bracked with a 1 1/2" spacer and a nut.
Here is a shot of the lines all hooked up on the engine side of the firewall. Notice the lines bolted to the radiator flange. In the upper right of the picture, you can see that i got good penetration when I welded the bracket to the other side.

Intercooler part 3 - Lower Brackets

This is the way the intercooler was left hanging, literally. In the previous posts, I made upper mounts and installed the tubes, but ended the day with no lower brackets.
Here is one of the brackets I made. The procedure follows.

I strted with the old hunk of frame from the bent 1-ton outside. This is nice heavy steel with a 90 degree bend already in it.
As before, I layed out my cuts on tape. I was looking for simple L-brackets with a 5/8" hole 7/8" from the back of the "L" I tried my new, very expensive, Irwin step bit but the steel was too heavy. Hopefully, I did not ruin the bit right out of the box.
So, after a trip to the drill press and a few swirlies with the burr (5/8" was not quite big enough), this is what I had.
After a little grinding tio clear the paint and some welding...Then some paint ant the bushing and we are done.

Grill Options

of all the Dodge truck grills, I am partial to this one. I am not sure why. For this body style it is one of the oldest and straight ones like this are almost nonexistant. This is the gril I plan to put on the crewcab sometime in the future. If particular interest is whether I can get it wrapped around an intercooler and air conditioning condensor. Note: this grill goes with round headlamps. This is just to check fitment.
In 1991 when the Cummins Turbo Diesel Dodges became intercooled, Dodge changed the grill style to the cromed plastic bubble grill to make room for the intercooler. With this old school grill off of a 1975 truck, there is very little extra space. The aluminum of the actual grill piece clears the intercoller, bet the steel valence below the grill does not. When I do the crew cab, I will be using an even bigger intercooler out of a 2nd generation (1995-?) It is 1/4 inch thicker and about 4 inches wider on both sides. Clearance will clearly be an issue, but I am confident that I can trim the valence to fit and still look nice.
This is the proper grill, the bubble grill, if you will, for the ctd (cummins turbo diesel) intercooled trucks. The valence inder the grill is for a gasser. I believe the ctd valences have ventilation for the bottom of the intercooler.
If a person is modifying an older core support as I am. The headlights would need to be relocated up a bit. Obviously the easiest thing for me to have done would have been to use this grill and get a correct core support to go with it, but then what would I have done with my time over the last few days...clean my shop?

I wanted to see if the pre-intercooled front could be made to fit.

The lower valence is in place.

It fits alright, but it covers a lot of the intercooler. the bottom of the cooler is at the 13" mark. If I use this valence, I will cut some openings to let air get to the cooler.
Here an ugly surrond and broken inset are hanging in place. The surround fits fine, but...
...the insert hits the intercooler. The cooler is holding it out about a half inch.
Studying the insert, if I cut the grids out of the four big slots, it looks loke it would fit. So, using the cut-off wheel in the die grinder I cut about a half inch off the back of the two big openings on the driver's side. Mmmmm... the smell of burning plastic.
After cutting out the back half inch, whis included the grids, It fit better, but this stud is now hitting the insert.
After a little strategic notching with the cut-off tool, it fits pretty good.

It does change the look a little. You can see the new on the driver's side and the old on the passenger side. If he wanted, a person could put some kind of mesh or something back there to give the grill a custom look. The end of the story is....It os possible to get an intercooler behind th factory non-intercooled grill ... sorta...