Somewhat random day.

I didn't get out to the shop until early afternoon today. The first thing I did was hang the driver's inner-fender. I had been holding off on the engine bay wiring until this was in place. I left the bolts loose so that I can jockey it around to line up the hood and fenders. I also reinstalled the key lock and start switch. I had taken them out to get a key made. $25 later, I now have a key to unlock the column and some day start the dumb thing.
Next, I focussed my attention to the wiring. I ran the main bundle along the top of the firewall. I then mounted the voltage regulator to the firewall and plugged the harness into it. I also attached the ground.
Then I hooked up the grid heaters. The grid heaters are acuated by solenoids on the driver's inner-fender. When the key is turned, the heaters heat in order to assist start-up. From what I understand the computer times the heat cycle and shuts them off after a few seconds when the "Wait to start" light goes out. Later, if and when I rewire this truck to make it as simple and reliable as possible, these grid heater will probably go away.
These two big plugs on the side of the engine by the lift pump and fuel filter get connected.
These two plugs connect the alternator to the harness.
The blower motor plug.

This is the washer tank pump plug on the passenger inner fender.
After hooking up what I could under the hood, I hung a door on the passenger side. Since the rear body and the windshield frame do not move, the door goes on before the fender. I do not know how many times I tried it the other way around and spent the rest of the day trying to get things to line-up. By doing the door first, you just fit the door to the winshield frame first, then to the body, rear of the door. On the lower hinge, leave two bolts loose and tighten the middle one. When the door is closed, you can get to the upper hinge bolts and this center lower bolt with a 9/16 socket and a 6" extension. I adjusted the top hinge to make the door fit the bottom of the windshield frame. Then I adjusted the bottom hinge to even out the gap along the door and frame.
Since I am using a newer style door than the body, I had to change the latch pin. I did not take any picks of that. I will when I do the other door. Once the latch pin is in place, it is adjusted up or down so the door closes smoothly and in or out to make the trailing edge of the door line-up with the body.
Once the door is in place, the fender can go on. To adjust the fender, work from the door forward. For now, I only tightened the back of the fender. The rest is loose until the hood is in place. Then it will get adusted and tightened to make the gaps along the hood look good. This picture was taken befor the back of the fender was adjusted.
I turned the key. I got buzzer, blower, wipers, hazard flashers, wait to start, 4x4 indicator, headlights, and map light, but no starter. I just get a click. I put the charger on the battery to make sure it was fully charged. Tomorrow, I will do some testing before I put the other fender on. Lifted trucks are such a joy to work on. The top of the fender is just right to rest my forearms on and talk about the worlds problems. Way too high for easy access. Oh, the price you pay for being cool.

I should also get the rest of the screws in the top of the dash and get the windshield in. The more I do to it (thinking doors here), the harder it will be to do the windshield.